Has your DJ equipment ever stopped working and your left scratching your head wondering why? Did you drop $500 on a midi controller and still get irregular performance? Well, don’t throw in the towel just yet, chances are that it is probably a problem with the cable connecting your equipment to your computer. We have had many reported instances of gear dropping out in the forums and in particular the VCI-100. While Vestax did a great job with the quality of the VCI-100 they skimped on the quality one area, the USB cable.
Lets take a look at what goes into choosing a cable that you can rely on.
Shorter is sometimes better
First thing to take into consideration is the length of your cable. The USB standard allows for up to 5 meters but shorter is usually much better. We recommend the maximum length of your cable only being a meter long, this will reduce the amount of noise that the cable will pick up that could potentially disrupt the connection from your gear to your computer. Shorter cables also reduce the chance of the cable acting like an antenna and picking up RF interference.
Ferrite Faucet?
You should make sure your new cable has a ferrite, which filter out electromagnetic noise common in a DJ booth and help to ensure the connection isn’t interrupted by any outside noise. This extra electromagnetic noise will be transferred into heat by the ferrite so it does not effect your controllers connection. Ferrite’s block high frequency interference, like noise from motherboards or UHF signals from nearby analog video, but do nothing for low frequency interference like monster bass bins.
If you can find an old cable that your not using anymore that has a ferrite (shown in the picture) then you could take it off and use it on your cable to help combat interference.
Brands are not all bad
Another important thing to look out for when buying a cable is this logo, it will appear on the packaging of the cable and will assure you that the USB cable follows the USB specifications. This is important, because without it a manufacturer could easily easily skimp on the quality of the cable and give you a seriously inferior product. One requirement a cable must pass to be hi-speed certified is that it contain twisted power-lines. This process helps to prevent interference being fed directly into your USB device which will cause all manors of havoc including drop outs or even a total disconnection. If you are wondering if the cables that you already own are hi-speed USB certified cables you can just check the connector for the same logo – if your cable doesn’t have this logo you might want to hold off buying a new controller and perhaps just get nice cable instead.
Another important difference between hi-speed USB and good old 1.1 is the copper shielding of the cables. USB data lines are supposed to have a characteristic impedance of 90 Ohms and shielding has a significant impact on maintaining a stable connection. Hi-Speed USB cables also specify twisting of the cables in much the same way that balanced mic leads work. The signal is sent down two parallel wires and any interference from speakers or audio gear will add the same amount to both wires. At the other, one signal is inverted and added to the other, meaning the interference gets canceled out leaving the true signal. No professional audio engineer works with anything other than balanced cables and neither should you.
Handy Tips
While you are using the cables you should also be weary of not to wrap them around any metal objects , especially iron, steel fixtures (like a laptop stand) or nearby scaffolding. Coiling wire around an iron core might create an Inductor which will mess with the current in your wire, but only changing current (like data!). Velcro ties are a great for an easy way to keep your cables nice and tidy without causing any issues with your precious controller.
Several of the users in the forum (including myself) have had dropout issues with the VCI-100 and a number of us have achieved a big difference by dumping the USB cable that came with our units originally. After numerous drop outs and problems I jumped up to a proper USB cable that meets the specs above and I am happy to report that since doing this my VCI-100 hasn’t dropped out a single time.
A big thank goes out to Midifidler and Fatlimey, who are our resident hardware and USB experts. Without their help this article would have never been possible.
Hold On..
Where can I get one of these things? Well, The handy team at TechTools is searching for the perfect USB cable as we speak and hopefully there will be something available in the store soon!
Edit: The USB cables are now on sale – Click here to read about them, or simply buy one from our store!
” What are your thoughts on the Monster Digital USB cable”
MONSTER is such BS. They cannot exceed 2.0 standards. Only USB can exceed thier own standards when they release 3.0. I hate companies like Monster and stores that sell it like Best Buy who give out false information to swindle and trick the average consumer and make huge profits. Thanks to sites like DJTT you get the FACTS.
“logo, it will appear on the packaging of the cable and will assure you that the USB cable follows the USB specifications.”
ALL YOU NEED to look for is :
hi-speed 2.0 certified cable The best data transfer rate available fully shielded gold connectors and 2 Ferrite Chokes
You can even reade the tiny print on the cable and look for 28AWG 30v 80 C
Then no other wording is necessary or possible, such as “Super High Speed” or “Fastest Cable Available” or in your case “Exceeds USB 2.0”
The reality is these cables should cost no more than $20, im guessing that monster cable was going for well over $50, right?
Thanks DJTT for all you have done in this department.
Do you plan on releasing a Mini USB DJTT Cable, exact same thing you are selling now only in mini form. This would be very beneficial now that the market is flooded with Slimline or Nano Controllers (Akai, KORG, etc…)
Ive searched around for a while. I did find a “Digital Camera ” cable in Radio shack that is high speed and gold plated but no Ferrites (btw…can these Ferrites be purchased seperately) I have also yet to see any of the minis come any shorter that 6 feet. Thats it.
Pete
This was a very interesting article because I have owned my controllers such as the VCI-100, VCI-300, XONE 4D and experienced drop-outs with all of them. I didn’t realize until now that I’ve used the same USB cables or non USB 2.0 and non-high speed compliant cables until I read this article. I currently am using the VCI-100 and the drop-outs are extremely minimal but curious to see if this problem will be eliminated with the USB cable you guys are selling.
I do have one question though… What are your thoughts on the Monster Digital USB cable, see link (http://www.monstercable.com/productdisplay.asp?pin=2906)
It claims to exceed USB 2.0 standards and has it’s own shielding technology. Is this just as good of a cable as yours or is it over-kill / marketing hype?
Ha, I pulling my hair out trying to work out what was wrong with my vestax VCM-100 – I tried re-installing everything from drivers to OS, a lengthy exchange with Vestax support had left them stumped – I was on the verge of mailing it back to Japan for a refund until I tried a new cable on a whim and my problems disappeared in a flash. I never suspected the cable was at fault as it still powered up the unit and sent MIDI back and forth but the built in soundcard refused to do anything, so it appeared the unit itself was at fault.
I just wish I had read this article a year ago, it would have saved so much heartache!
Any news on the HQ usb hub article?
[quote comment=””]These are now on sale !
See this new post: http://www.djtechtools.com/2009/06/19/hi-speed-usb-cables-for-djs-20-ferrite/%5B/quote%5D
Yeah seriously thanks Ean. Thanks for making me obsessed now with my cables!!! Good info…i might add…if you dont buy from the site the only other place selling TRUE USB 2.0 Hi Speed Brand 3 or 6 foot cables is that big orange hardware store (same price) Its hysterical that places like Staples and Best Buy sell 30 foot cables claiming SUPER HIGH SPEED Gold Platinum Bullsh#t for literally $45. COME ON, why because its purple!!! Great info thanks.
These are now on sale !
See this new post: http://www.djtechtools.com/2009/06/19/hi-speed-usb-cables-for-djs-20-ferrite/
[quote comment=””]also a handy tip is to plug your midi controller (at least on a mac) into the usb port farthest from you screen. I was having problems with my midi controller and i asked the manufacturer about it and they said audio dropout is more common with the usb port closest to your screen[/quote]
That’s because the two USB ports on MacBooks are linked. The back one is a spur off the front. I had trouble with an M-Audio Soundcard until I read this article:
[blockquote]Use of M-Audio USB Audio Intefaces, Mbox, Mbox 2 or Other USB Audio Devices on the Rear USB Port Is Not Recommended
* There are 2 USB ports on the left side of the MacBook models listed above.
* Due to internal USB architecture issues on the MacBook, use of Digidesign, M-Audio, or third-party USB audio devices is supported on the front USB port only (the port farthest away from the screen).
* Use of such devices on the rear USB port is not advised because it may cause audio interrupts and/or dropped samples.[/blockquote]
also a handy tip is to plug your midi controller (at least on a mac) into the usb port farthest from you screen. I was having problems with my midi controller and i asked the manufacturer about it and they said audio dropout is more common with the usb port closest to your screen
great article.
@Lukas – We plan on putting an article up on high end usb hubs – were currently doing research into finding a product that delivers. Stay tuned for that.
So what about highend USB hubs (if there is such a thing)?
I had problem with FireBox and low quality FW cable. there were pops and crackles while reproducing audio. I replaced cable with one that has better shielding (no ferrites tho) and it is like clockwork now.
Anyone having these same issues with Firewire cable? Until reading this article I thought my dropouts were from a faulty mixer, but now I am wondering if it is my cable. It has a ferrite on it and is only 3' long. I get a drop out intermittently. It repeats intermittently after occurring.
Secondly, a question for those of you experiencing USB dropouts. When this occurrs do the control buttons and knobs on your mixer also die? On mine when the audio drops, the output level meters are still pumping like music is playing, and the gain control knob still adjusts the output, but everything else doesn't respond. Even buttons with lights built in don't light up when pushed.
Thanks for any responses, I have a couple gigs coming up and am trying to resolve this issue quickly.
[quote comment="16895"]*UPDATE*
radio shack cat# 273-069 for those in the USA $2.99 (usd)
dick smith cat# R5120 for those in Australia $2.98 (aud)
-josh[/quote]
Awesome! I'm gonna pick me up a couple of these… =)
I have a hercules RMX controller that cuts out from static charges on my clothes. For example if i touch it after sitting on a couch in a wool top. I feel the spark jump, and its GONE! any advice on how to properly ground this sucker? seems to me like poor isolation of electronics from the casing, could even be a safety issue.
Having good cables is more important than a lot of people think. I use a padkontrol and a numark total control (no, I'm not a control freak) together on a lenovo laptop. If I put them both on usb ports on the right of the laptop and either has a cheap cable the NTC will lock up almost immediately. Just using two cables that both have ferrite rings on them is enough to make everything happy.
for those having a drop out issue with your vci-100 and traktor, when it happens, go into the midi controller set up preferences. deselect your vci-100 (eliminate the X), press apply. then re-activate it (bring back the x) and press apply. your controller is now recognized again.
another quick-tip would be using angled cables. that way, if you are unfortunate enough to somehow pull the cable the angle of the connection would make it harder for the cable to pop out.
never mind the gold-plated ones. usb-cable is a digital device, either the connection is made or not. doesn't improve anything.
Yep…I’ve been installing TV’s at the school I work for and have a bunch of these laying around. I was just asking what we could do with them….[/quote]
ps…they are Panasonic TV’s
[quote comment="16894"]for those after the ferrite clip ons… i have noticed a few brand new tv's (plasmas to be specific) have come with two three extra ferrite clip ons in the bag with the remote, so you may know someone with a couple floating around. or if you want to buy some try an authorized tv repair center for panasonic, samsung etc cos im sure they'd have some.
josh[/quote]
[quote comment=""]Funny thing, here you can only buy Bandrige cables as higher quality.
They are usually stiff as hell, plucking out ports.[/quote]
Yep…I've been installing TV's at the school I work for and have a bunch of these laying around. I was just asking what we could do with them….
Funny thing, here you can only buy Bandrige cables as higher quality.
They are usually stiff as hell, plucking out ports.
Great Editorial! I find that USB cords with Gold plated connects work really well. I think Monster (the brand) has a lot of these shielded, gold plated connected types.
But once again thanks for the tip!
Bento: Its a great article, sorry if my comment sounded rude, I woke up kind of grumpy….
Josh: Thanks for the advice
[quote comment="16921"]Excellent article Ean, as usual very useful. I do use a certifyed cable without a ferrite and luckily I have had no dropouts yet. I will look for a ferrite though. At what place of the cable would be good to add it?
PD: What a bad picture for the article :([/quote]
i'd recon you'd put them as close to the connectors as possible
josh
Wow! I just had this problem this past week as most of you might know from my post to the forum.
When you find a proper usb cable for use with the VCI-100SE let me know guys.
So far everything is ok…for now.
Great article again!
Ken_UF
[quote comment=""]i think its funny that i read this and was thinking 'hmmm, thats never happened to me' and then i played a show last night………..
[/quote]
Its the USB placebo effect at work! beware all….
i think its funny that i read this and was thinking 'hmmm, thats never happened to me' and then i played a show last night………..
i was jinxed i tell you!
@Alien2k: I wrote the article and also chose the picture – so you can blame if you dont like it. However i do think everyones had that expression on their face at some stage when their gear has dropped out without warning :p
Excellent article Ean, as usual very useful. I do use a certifyed cable without a ferrite and luckily I have had no dropouts yet. I will look for a ferrite though. At what place of the cable would be good to add it?
PD: What a bad picture for the article 🙁
I'm also interested in L-shaped connectors. Funny thing, nobody in this country thinks L-shaped usb or fw is good/interesting thing.
I've been building my own angled USB but stil haven't tried it with FW.
Good thing that we have this angledcables website but it makes you wonder, are those cables of good quality?
[quote comment=""]Are the any USB cables with angled connectors? (on the VCI side)
Allways benn tired of the cable reaching out on the back…[/quote]
Sorry haha.. didn´t read the post before me..
Are the any USB cables with angled connectors? (on the VCI side)
Allways benn tired of the cable reaching out on the back…
I have being very happy with this place:
http://www.usbfirewire.com/
I have purchased high quality L shaped USB cables that were really handy for my VCM-100. They also build custom cables. Good prices also.
[quote comment=""]Great info. Many thanks.[/quote]
guys im having midi dropout when using jogwheels. I tried different cables still not working. the Data send led on my vestax is solid when scratching but the Midi signal led in traktor is cutting off(off/on) when Im trying to scratch back and forth without lifting my finger. Omg this is BS….
Great info. Many thanks.
I had the same problem with the NIO 2/4 Soundcard. Why do they even bother shipping cables if you have to throw it out and buy another one anyway>>?
Also noticed that my x-session pro has 'prongs' which is really crap as i am often plugging and un=plugging the damn thing. Talk about cheap. 🙂
And good brand name recommendations for THE BEST USB cable >?
*UPDATE*
radio shack cat# 273-069 for those in the USA $2.99 (usd)
dick smith cat# R5120 for those in Australia $2.98 (aud)
-josh
for those after the ferrite clip ons… i have noticed a few brand new tv's (plasmas to be specific) have come with two three extra ferrite clip ons in the bag with the remote, so you may know someone with a couple floating around. or if you want to buy some try an authorized tv repair center for panasonic, samsung etc cos im sure they'd have some.
josh
I have had these troubles myself, and now remedied with the replacement of the original USB cable from Vestax.
Great article for sure!
You dont need gold plated connectors, however you do need gold plated connector pins (the pins inside the connector). It would take several years of not being used to build up enough corrosion not to get a good connection and the act of constantly plugging and unplugging the cable is enough to keep this corrosion from ever becomming a problem.
These gold plated pins are part of the USB hi-speed standard though, so just make sure you get a hi-speed certified cable and your fine.
Damn it! Another USB drop out! A quick search of newegg.com has alot of usb cables, not to many have the ferrite, but I have several cables around the house with it. Thanks Bento for the info, do you think it would matter if you get the gold plated one? or monster cable usb cord?
[img ]http://c1.neweggimages.com/ProductImageCompressAll200/12-339-144-01.jpg[/img]